All eyes were on Stuart Vevers this week, when he showed the Loewe autumn winter 09 collection for the first time on the catwalk during Paris Fashion Week. Opting for the glamour of a runway instead of salon presentation, Vevers didn’t disappoint. An elegant silhouette in the House’s signature fabric – leather – was made relevant for today’s customer.

Vevers told WGSN: “It was really about the house of Loewe and what it stands for – lots of research in leather, but made relevant for today’s woman. 100% new and modern, it was a very rational silhouette. We were also inspired by menswear – the collection is in fact around 70% outerwear.”

Tailored leather was key to the collection with voluminous skirts featuring cut-out flaps and laser-cut details paired with fitted jackets, all cinched at the waist. There were also leather T-shirts and T-shirt dresses with slight puff sleeves, as well as little cocktail dresses. The softest suede was also transformed into T-shirt dresses, skirt suits or tiered, embellished bustier dresses with heavy zips up the back.

Bags were soft and slouchy. “We took the earthy, cool approach to the house which is all about craftsmanship,” Vevers told WGSN. “But of course we still want to have some fun.” Huge scarves were draped around the neck – belted along with the jacket and skirt, together with long leather gloves, which are emerging as a key accessory trend this season – and masculine brogueing details, used as inspiration for decorative finishing details. There was of course lots of black and grey throughout the collection, but also a vibrant shot of electric blue and tangerine, on suede or ponyskin.

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